St Emilion was founded in the 8th century by the hermit monk Emilion, who made his home in the limestone cliffs not far from Bordeaux. Such was his following that many others made their homes in the caves and shelters nearby, using the largest as a church. By the C12th this had become the Eglise Monolith, which grew into, and still is, the largest monolithic church in Europe. Druids first planted vines here around AD20. The reputation of St Emilion as a wine growing region soared during the Middle Ages – the English called it the “King of Wines & the Wine of Kings”. It is still the area that exports the most wine to the UK.

As you approach St Emilion today, you will travel through hundreds of hectares of gorgeous vineyards & wine houses. This is one of the most picturesque areas of the Bordeaux Region. Bordeaux wines are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc grapes - predominantly reds - and some of the most famous names in wine making come not just from St Emilion, but the extended Gironde region - Chateaux Margaux, Latour, Lafite-Rothschild, and Petrus. Another very famous wine comes from the Sauternes district - the heavenly sweet whites!!

The village today is quintessentially French - tiny cobblestone streets and beautiful stone buildings - and I especially love all the gorgeous wine shops selling not just local wines but exquisite glassware for serving and drinking it - in every shape and size you can imagine! There are some great restaurants and cafes too, many of them offering terrace areas to sit outside, or on one of the charming squares.

Though there are a plethora of hotels throughout the surrounding countryside, there is only one hotel in the historic village itself. We stay in the “Hostellerie de Plaisance” – which literally sits right beside the clocktower of the Monolithic church. It is, without exaggeration, one of the most charming hotels I have ever stayed in. A member of the SLH (Small Luxury Hotels) Group, the Hostellerie is decorated in a sublime contemporary style, each room with different touches – the wall of our room was “splashed” with circular spots of colour which was picked up in other items around the room such as cushions and vases.

The bar area is an exquisite burnt orange theme with wrought iron and divine cherry wood antiques – and the outdoor courtyard area a classical French style with magnificent views over the village and surrounding vineyards. We enjoyed a drink here every evening and it is very hard not to feel incredibly spoilt and wonder what the workers are doing back home (in my case, that would be my poor husband and kids!!).

The hotel sits on several different levels, with some rooms at the top of the village, and some right down at the bottom with a secret door leading directly out onto the street. The suites are exceptional, and worthy of the most discerning traveler – large, exquisitely decorated, and with a beautiful outlook onto the gardens or village.

The gardens are stunning - and very eclectic – from some VERY unusual cow sculptures, to enormous hemp containers housing the herb garden, which all of us wanted to ship home (the containers, not the cows!!).
 

The restaurant, headed by chef de cuisine Phillipe Etchebest, is Michelin two star standard – apparently hoping for three next year and I will eat my beret if he does not get it!! Again, it is definitely one of the most sublime culinary experiences I have had in recent times…. or ever!! He is a young, ex-rugby player from Basque country (looks like it too!!) and is friendly, charming and deserving of every accolade he gets – not least because he is so wonderfully humble!!

This hotel is one of those places that is worth every cent not just because it is a deluxe hotel, but because every corner and every service provides such an experience in itself – and often a delightfully unexpected treat!

A trip to St Emilion is not worth experiencing without a guide from the local tourist office – so much history to be missed otherwise!! And, though daggy (to use a very Aussie word!) & touristy as some people may regard the ubiquitous small tourist trains, the St Emilion version takes you into the surrounding countryside and showcases some of the most beautiful wineries and chateaux.

A French winemaker was charged last month with trying to poison his wife, because he thought she worked too much. Jacky Chatelain, a 51 year old vineyard owner from the Chablis wine region of Burgundy, told police that his wife Josiane spent more time looking after the vineyard than looking after him. He admitted attempting to poison her with arsenic. Chatelain was charged and released on bail.

Source: "France" Magazine

EXPRESS YOURSELF

Impress the locals with your knowledge of French!

Ten Expressions about “Tête”

En tête a tête                                      One to one

À tête reposée                                   At leisure

Elle fait la tête                                    She is sulking

Il n’en fait qu’à sa tête                      He goes his own way

Un signe de la tête                           A nod

C’est une tête brûlée                       He is a daredevil/crazy

J’en ai par-dessus la tête               I am fed up to the back teeth

Tu es tombée sur la tête ?              Have you gone mad?

Il a la tète sur les épaules               He is level headed

J’en donnerais ma tête à couper   I would swear to it 
                                                             (literally : I would give my head to be cut off – now SURELY

                                                              that originated during the Revolution!!)
 

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SUE HEINE

TOUR DIRECTOR